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Island Peak climbing

  • Duration: 14
  • Destination: Nepal
  • Destination Nepal
  • Activity Peak Climbing
  • Trip Grade Hard
  • Max. Elevation 6,189 M
  • Best Time Mar - May & Sep - Dec
  • Group Size 2-10

Overview

Island Peak Climbing, also known as Imja Tse, is a popular climbing peak located in the Khumbu region of Nepal. It is a beautiful and challenging peak with an elevation of 6,189 meters (20,305 feet) above sea level. The peak is named Island Peak because it looks like an island in a sea of ice when viewed from Dingboche.

Island Peak climbing is a great adventure for those who have some previous climbing experience and want to push their limits. It is considered a technical climb, and climbers need to have some basic mountaineering skills, including the use of crampons, ice axe, and rope techniques.

Climbing route

Island Peak, also known as Imja Tse, is a popular peak for climbers in the Everest region of Nepal. The peak is accessible from the village of Chhukung and is usually climbed as part of a larger trekking itinerary that includes a visit to Everest Base Camp.

The most common climbing route for Island Peak is the South Ridge route. Here is a general overview of the route:

Base Camp (5,087m): The climb begins at Island Peak Base Camp, which is reached after a trek from Lukla through the villages of Phakding, Namche Bazaar, Tengboche, Dingboche, and Chhukung.

High Camp (5,600m): From Base Camp, climbers make their way to High Camp. This involves a steep climb up a moraine ridge and a traverse across a glacier.

Summit (6,189m): From High Camp, climbers begin the final push to the summit. This involves a steep climb up a rocky ridge, followed by a traverse across a snowfield, and a final ascent up a steep snow and ice slope to the summit.

The South Ridge route is considered a moderately difficult climb, with technical sections of steep snow and ice. Climbers are typically roped together and use crampons, ice axes, and other climbing equipment for safety. It is important to have experience in high altitude climbing and to be in good physical condition before attempting the climb.

 How to prepare fo Island Peak Climbing

Preparing for a climb of Island Peak requires a combination of physical training, technical skills practice, and careful planning. Here are some general guidelines for preparation:

  1. Physical Training: Island Peak is a high-altitude climb that requires a good level of fitness. Regular cardiovascular and strength training exercises such as hiking, running, cycling, and weightlifting can help you build up your endurance and strength. It is recommended to start training several months in advance of the climb to allow time to build up your fitness gradually.
  2. Altitude Acclimatization: The climb to Island Peak involves significant altitude gain, so it is important to spend time acclimatizing to the high altitude before attempting the climb. This can be done by gradually increasing your altitude exposure during the trekking portion of the trip, staying hydrated, and taking rest days when needed.
  3. Technical Skills: Island Peak is a technical climb that requires proficiency in using crampons, ice axes, ropes, and other climbing equipment. It is important to practice these skills before the climb to ensure that you are comfortable using them in the mountain environment.
  4. Gear and Equipment: Make sure you have all the necessary gear and equipment for the climb, including warm clothing, a good quality sleeping bag, a backpack, climbing boots, crampons, ice axes, harness, ropes, and a helmet. It is also important to have a good quality altitude-rated tent and cooking equipment for the base and high camps.
  5. Plan your itinerary: Plan your itinerary with a reputable trekking and climbing company. Make sure you have enough time for acclimatization and to complete the climb safely. A typical itinerary for Island Peak climb is around 16-20 days, which includes a trek to Everest Base Camp and Kala Patthar.
  6. Consult a doctor: Before embarking on the climb, it is important to consult a doctor and get a thorough medical check-up to ensure that you are fit to attempt the climb. You may also need to get vaccinations and medications for altitude sickness and other health issues.

By following these guidelines and preparing well, you can increase your chances of successfully climbing Island Peak.

 Best time to climb for Island Peak Climbing

The best time to climb Island Peak is during the pre-monsoon (spring) season and post-monsoon (fall) season. The weather is generally stable during these seasons with clear skies and good visibility, making it easier to climb the peak. The best months for climbing Island Peak are:

  1. Spring Season (Mid-March to May): This is the most popular season for climbing Island Peak. The weather is generally dry and stable, with mild temperatures during the day and cold temperatures at night. The climbing conditions are ideal, with good snow and ice conditions for climbing.

 

  1. Fall Season (Mid-September to November): This is another popular season for climbing Island Peak. The weather is generally dry and stable, with mild temperatures during the day and cold temperatures at night. The fall season offers clear views of the surrounding mountains and valleys, making it a great time for photography.

During the monsoon season (June to August), the weather is generally wet and unstable, with frequent rain and snowfall. Climbing during this season is not recommended due to the difficult weather conditions and increased risk of avalanches and landslides.

During the winter season (December to February), the weather is generally very cold and snowy, with strong winds and difficult climbing conditions. Climbing during this season is also not recommended due to the harsh weather conditions and increased risk of frostbite and hypothermia.

It is important to check the weather forecast and consult with a reputable trekking and climbing company before attempting to climb Island Peak to ensure safe climbing conditions.

TIMS permit for the climbing

Yes, a TIMS (Trekkers’ Information Management System) permit is required for climbers who plan to climb Island Peak. The TIMS permit is a mandatory registration system implemented by the Nepal Tourism Board and Trekking Agencies’ Association of Nepal (TAAN) to ensure the safety and security of trekkers and climbers in Nepal.

To obtain a TIMS permit, climbers must provide their personal information, passport details, itinerary, and other relevant information to the Trekking Agencies Association of Nepal (TAAN) or the Nepal Tourism Board (NTB). The cost of the permit varies depending on the season and the type of permit required.

Climbers can obtain a TIMS permit through a registered trekking agency in Nepal or through the Nepal Tourism Board. It is important to obtain the TIMS permit before starting the climb as it is required for all trekkers and climbers in Nepal.

In addition to the TIMS permit, climbers also need to obtain other permits and licenses, such as the Sagarmatha National Park permit and the Island Peak climbing permit. These permits are also necessary for climbing Island Peak and can be obtained through the same trekking agency or the Nepal Tourism Board.

 Packing list

Here is a general packing list for climbing Island Peak. The list may vary depending on your personal preferences, the time of year, and the length of your trip. It is important to pack light but also include all the necessary gear and equipment for the climb:

 2. Clothing:

  • Waterproof and breathable jacket and pants
  • Insulated jacket (down or synthetic)
  • Fleece or soft-shell jacket
  • Thermal tops and bottoms
  • Quick-drying hiking pants
  • Warm hat and gloves
  • Sun hat and sunglasses
  • Hiking socks and liners
  • Gaiters

 3. Footwear:

  • Sturdy and waterproof hiking boots
  • Crampons
  • Gaiters
  • Camp shoes or sandals

 3. Climbing Gear:

  • Climbing harness
  • Climbing helmet
  • Ice axe
  • Crampons
  • Ascender and descender
  • Carabiners
  • Ropes and slings
  • Climbing gloves

 4. Camping Gear:

  • High-quality tent
  • Sleeping bag (rated for high altitudes)
  • Sleeping pad
  • Cooking stove and fuel
  • Cooking utensils
  • Water bottles and water purification tablets or filter
  • Headlamp with extra batteries

5. Personal Items:

  • Passport and permits
  •  Cash and credit cards
  • First aid kit with medications for altitude sickness, pain relief, and gastrointestinal issues
  • Sunscreen and lip balm
  • Insect repellent
  • Personal hygiene items (wet wipes, hand sanitizer, toilet paper)
  • Camera and spare batteries
  • Trekking poles

It is important to pack all your gear and equipment in a durable and waterproof backpack or duffel bag. You may also have a porter to carry your gear and equipment during the climb to reduce the weight you have to carry.

Itinerary

When you arrive at Tribhuwan International Airport (KTM) in Kathmandu, one of the airport representatives from Tidy Himalaya will welcome you and escort you to the hotel. Then, you will check into the hotel, and relax at the hotel. Overnight at hotel.

We will fly to Lukla from Kathmandu on this day. As we reach Lukla lying 2804m high, we will start trekking slowly to Cheplung village where the beautiful glimpse of Mt. Khumbila, a holy peak appears. We will then pass lush background and the arresting views of Kusum Kangraru will mesmerize us before we reach Phakding. Overnight at the guesthouse, breakfast, lunch, and dinner included.

Departing from Phakding, on this day, we will trek to Namche Bazaar taking approximately 6 hours. The eye-catching settings on the way will completely allure anyone. Upon reaching close to the Jorsale Village, we will enter Sagarmatha National Park. Then, we will walk on an uneven trail; traverse several suspension bridges; and a thick forest of pine and cedar trees. After a challenging climb, we will reach Namche Bazaar, the major set in the Everest region which is surrounded by snowy peaks and where Sherpa people reside. Namche was long ago a trading post for Tibetan and Nepalese traders. Overnight at the guesthouse, breakfast, lunch, and dinner included.

We have an acclimatization day in Namche Bazaar on this day. We can explore around Namche Bazaar or hike to Everest View Hotel to capture stunning views of Everest, Tawache, Amadablam, Lhotse, and more. We will also visit The Everest Photo Gallery and The Sherpa Culture Museum while returning back to Namche Bazaar. Overnight at the guesthouse, breakfast, lunch, and dinner included.

From Namche, we will move rather close to the arresting views of Mount Everest. After that, walk down to the Dudh Koshi Valley from where we will make our way to the Dudh Koshi Valley to get to the Tengboche. It is located at a height of 3860m. Apart from visiting the famous Tengboche monastery, you will be rewarded by the serene background of Mount Amadablam, Mt. Everest, and many other peaks. Overnight at a guesthouse, breakfast, lunch, and dinner included.

From Tengboche, we will walk for approximately 5 hours to reach Dingboche. We will move down to Debuche and go across another suspension bridge over the Imja River. Also, we will climb to Pangboche which is set lying between massive Mani stones. From Pangboche, we will make our way to the appealing Sherpa settlement – Dingboche. It is named as ‘summer valley’ which bestows stunning views of Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Island Peak, etc. Overnight at a guesthouse, breakfast, lunch, and dinner included.

This would be your second acclimatization day that requires about 6 hours of trekking to an altitude of 5100m. After breakfast, you ascend Nagerjun (5100m), a hill located on the flanks of the Chhukung valley directly above Dingboche. The main aim is to climb high and sleep low. The footpath becomes steep at times, resulting in a physically strenuous day. Ascending the hill could take up to 5 hours at altitude. From this altitude, there are good views of Lobuche East (6119m), Lobuche West (6145m), Taboche Peak (6367m), Thamserku (6608m), Kangtega (6685m) and Ama Dablam (6856m). On a clear day, you could even see Makalu, the world’s fifth-highest mountain, including great views of the Pheriche Valley. After a short rest, you start the descent back to Dingboche and the walk at altitude takes about 2 hours. After lunch, take a well-deserved rest, as afternoon temperatures could drop rapidly as the sun sets over the mountain tops. You will also spend a second night in Dingboche. Overnight at Guesthouse, breakfast, lunch, and dinner included.

From Dingboche, it takes around 6 days to reach Island Peak Base Camp. We will begin slowly following the Imja Valley which rewards with awesome views of Ama Dablam. Also, we will follow the moraines that pour from Lhotse lying 8501m high to the smooth flat area at Pareshaya Gyab. Then, finally, we will arrive at Island Peak Base Camp which lies at an elevation of 5240m. Overnight at tented camp, breakfast, lunch, and dinner included. On this day you will also get training from our veteran guides on peak climbing skills and using climbing equipment such as ice axe, crampons, harnesses, etc as well as ropes. Learning the skills improves your confidence to reach the summit of the peak.

This is the most important day of the trek as we will reach the peak of the Island Peak lying at the height of 6189m. We will begin early in the morning since we need to walk for approximately 11 hours on this day. We will go up to the rocky gorge to reach an edge line, which leads us to the muzzle of the glacier. Then we will get to the top of the Island peak. Reaching at the top and discovering the amazing views will remain in your memories forever. After that, we will return back to the base camp. Overnight at camp.

There is no such guarantee that we can get favorable weather on our planned day for the summit (day 13), so this day is used as a contingency in case we are unable to summit Island Peak on day 13 due to bad weather conditions or some other reasons. If the weather gets exceptionally unfavorable, we will have to wisely postpone the program of summiting the peak. Sometimes, somebody in the group may get some problems acclimatizing as well, or may not be well enough to make the ascent; the day can be used in that condition too. If the trip goes smoothly, we do not need this spare day. Overnight stay at the tented camp or guesthouse, breakfast, lunch, and dinner included.

Leaving the mountains behind us, our descent takes us through various towns of Orsho, Somare, and Pangboche, Tengboche then Phungki Thanka, and a completely steep to Kyangjuma, and an easier trail to Namche. Overnight stay at the guesthouse at Namche Bazaar, breakfast, lunch, and dinner included.

The trek continues along the Dudh Koshi River to the small mountain airstrip at Lukla, where you will catch your return flight to Kathmandu the next day. Overnight stay at the guesthouse at Lukla, breakfast, lunch, and dinner included.

You will be delighted by the mountain views for the last time while flying from Lukla to Kathmandu on your 30-minute flight. As you reach Kathmandu airport, you will be transferred to your hotel. Overnight stay at the hotel, breakfast included.

The airport representative from Nepal Hiking Team will transfer you to the Kathmandu International Airport around 3 hours before your scheduled flight from where you will depart.

Cost Includes

  • All ground transports in private vehicles including airport transfers
  • Two nights’ accommodation with breakfast at a 3-star category hotel in Kathmandu
  • Full board meals with tea/coffee (breakfast, lunch, and dinner) during the trek and climb
  • Island peak climbing permit fee
  • Best available twin sharing lodge to lodge accommodation during the trek and tented accommodation during the climbing
  • Seasonal fruits during the trek
  • English-speaking trekking guide and highly experienced (2-3 times Everest Submitter ) climbing guide for Island peak including their food, accommodations, salary, insurance, etc.
  • Require porters (two clients: 1 porter) and their food, accommodation, salary, equipment, and insurance
  • Round trip flight Kathmandu – Lukla, and Lukla – Kathmandu including departure taxes
  • Duffle bag, down jacket, and sleeping bag during the trek
  • Tidy Himalaya T-shirt, trekking map, and trip achievement certificate
  • Comprehensive first aid medical kit
  • Boiled water will be provided during the climb
  • All require permits including TIMS, Sagarmatha NP, Island Peak climbing, etc.
  • General climbing equipment such as rope, ice screw, snow bar, etc.
  • All taxes and service charges

Cost Excludes

  • Meals not specified in the ‘Meal Inclusions’ in the itinerary’
  • Travel Insurance
  • International airfare
  • Nepal entry visa
  • Drink including – water, coke, Fanta, alcoholic beverage, snacks, and other personal expenses
  • Hot showers during the trek except in Lukla, Phakding, and Namche
  • Personal climbing/trekking equipment
  • Tips and gratuities for trekking staff and drivers

Cost and Date

Start Dates are your arrival date in Nepal and End Dates are the returning date from Nepal.
The set departure dates listed are specially quoted and specified for group joining option. Let us know if the set departure dates are not suitable for you- another dates which are suitable for you can certainly be added by us.

Currently we have No Fix Departure for this trip